So you need to know how to bleed the clutch on a Nissan 240sx?
The job itself should take less then an hour, but if you have someone else to give you a hand, it’ll take much less. Unless you have a pump bleeder accessible, then the job itself will be a breeze. Before you we get down to business, if the clutch dampener has not been removed yet, now would be a good time to do so. The clutch dampener causes 97% of clutch problems with the 240sx. The clutch master cylinder could be one, and the slave could be another, and the hose itself that goes from the dampener to the slave could be rotten or leaking. These are the most common issues with a fault clutch pedal.
The damper is probably the most hated part on the entire clutch system. The reason being is that the damper itself likes to lock air inside it, causing issues when bleeding. You can bleed for 10 minutes, go through an entire bottle of fluid and when you go for a test drive you will find the clutch sometime fails to fully disengage, and GRIND while shifting. The purpose of the damper is to eliminate clutch petal feedback. Personally, I would much rather feel the clutch more then not, come on it’s a freaking race car right! The problem besides bleeding the air out of it, is over the years dirt and grime cause the block itself to have issues with clutch engaging and disengaging.
Tools Needed(or should use)
A line wrench would really help for this job, and most don’t have access to one. It is designed for these types of jobs. You can try and use a 10mm wrench but the lines and fittings are over 20 years old, you KNOW they are going to round(strip) easily. So don’t make the job harder on yourself, so to auto zone or your nearest parts store and get one.
Once the damper is removed and hopefully in your scrap bin or garbage, you will have 2 options. Option 1, you CAREFULLY bend the clutch hard line around so the rubber line can attack directly to the hard line, Option 2, the PREFERRED method, buy the perfect line! FRSport has them, and eliminates the chance of breaking or cracking the hardline.
Having a bleeder kit will make the job so quick and cause no mess! They aren’t expensive and can be used for future jobs on your 240sx, jobs such as brake jobs, future clutch jobs on friends, or any job needed hydraulic lines bled. For 6-25$ the bleeder kit can help with those painful bleeding tasks. Harbor Freight has them, go get one now!
Many will argue with what is and is not the right clutch fluid. Personally, all of my friend, and I have used any DOT 3 brake fluid. It can be the cheap stuff, or expensive, it all depends on your wallet. I myself prefer to save all the pennies I can, so I use the generic dollar store dot 3 fluid. If you use thicker fluid, you take the chance of damaging the seals or clutch components. If you use non DOT3 you take the chance of having the fluid eat away at the seals causing future leaks.
Where is the damper and what do I need to remove?
Jack up the passenger side of your 240sx and put some jack stands under it, remember Safety First. Now go under and look for the damper, you cant miss the sucker, it’s ugly and takes up a decent bit of room under there. Remove the left hard line, if you have those nifty plugs for hydraulic lines get ready to use one, if not, then get a rag or bottle ready so you don’t get any fluid in your face or in your eyes. Then remove the slave cylinder followed by the rubber line.
Once you have done this, proceed by removing the damper and bracket. It’s super easy, just watch those knuckles.
Once you have the line on, reinstall the slave to the transmission. Get your bleeder kid ready and your fluid handy! Open the reservoir on your clutch master and fill it up. REMEMBER to always keep the clutch master full at all times! If you accidentally forget to check it while bleeding you can accidentally pull air in if you run out. Make sure the pedal is up in the regular position. Once you have bled the system, you can tighten up the bleeder and begin your clean up. Top off the reservoir and put the cap on it. Enjoy !